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    1. 说走就走去希腊-克里特岛(3)

      雷西姆农: 位于克里特岛北部,濒临爱琴海,在哈尼亚市与伊拉克利翁市之间,它是雷西姆农州的州府,是克里特岛第三大城市。是克里特岛保存最完好的威尼斯古城.

      从哈尼亚乘巴士过来只需一小时一刻钟,下了车,出了车站,沿着滨海大道向东走,海水清澈碧透,水中有人畅游。海风携着海的气息轻拂着行人的发梢。

      不久便到了雷西姆农城堡 (Fortezza of Rethymno):城堡位于旧城堡山(Paleokastro)上,古希腊卫城的原址。在10-13世纪,拜占庭帝国在其东侧建造城堡Castrum Rethemi。威尼斯共和国占领后,名为旧城堡(Castel Vecchio或Antico Castello)。威尼斯统治时期,雷西姆农成为克里特岛第三大城市。1540-1570年,沿海修建了城墙。 

           


      1571年奥斯曼帝国征服塞浦路斯以后,克里特岛成为威尼斯最大的海外据点。威尼斯在雷西姆农山上修建了新城堡,?;こ鞘泻透劭?。工程开始于1573年9月13日,完成于1580年。
      在悠扬的俄罗斯乐曲声中,沿着斜坡不急不慢地往城堡走来。买了门票,马上买了瓶冰水。城堡内有数座建筑。从北向南,从东向西一一看过。


      苏丹易卜拉欣清真寺,原为圣尼古拉主教座堂。附近的一座建筑,原为主教府。此外还有一些教会建筑。 
      城堡内设有威尼斯人的行政机构.仅在奥斯曼军队入侵时收容避难的居民。 1646年9月29日,奥斯曼军队包围了雷西姆农。11月13日,威尼斯人向奥斯曼军队投降。到20世纪初,城堡内已经建起许多房屋。这些房屋在二战以后被拆除,城堡内只留下少数历史建筑。
      有几个游客居高站在断壁上拍照,在烈日下格外英姿飒飒。另有一年轻妈妈推着童车在残缺不全的石阶上推着童车,婴儿吮着手指,一眼不眨地凝视着前方,疾走在后的爸爸肩上驮着大点儿的孩子正在赶来帮忙推车。


      沿海的瞭望口里凉爽些,可以一览无余地看到海上的来往船只。西边可以隔着城墙俯瞰市区。旧时的防空洞被改装为城里名画家的艺术展厅。一直猫咪眯着眼睛轻盈地踱着步子,高傲地在艺术品间巡视,熏香环绕中,油画的色彩愈发朦胧神秘。


      待到出门,匆匆往市区的路上才发现一直以来萦绕耳畔的乐曲来自于席地而坐的一个年轻乐手,他笑咪咪地推拉,仿佛那不是什么乐器,而是他躯体的一部分。
      一路在乐曲声中走下坡,右拐弯便到了幽静的古城。狭窄的街道错综复杂,木质阳台的房屋幽雅宁静. 
















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