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    1. 金秋十月中欧三国掠影(八):克拉科夫的盐矿

       

      在克拉科夫附近,有一个被录入世界遗产名录的盐矿。到克拉科夫旅游,盐矿是必去景点之一。我们也久闻大名,预定了一个盐矿半日游。

      盐矿的名字叫维利奇卡盐矿Wieliczka Salt Mine,一个很不好记的名字,所以我们还是称它为克拉科夫盐矿吧。

      盐矿之所以有名,是因为它是一处持续开采了700年的矿场。盐矿中有房间,礼拜堂,还有地下湖泊。几百年的人类血汗与智慧的凝结,留下了一个庞大的地下王国。

      现存的盐矿,有240公里长的巷道,2040间厅室,深入地下327米。我们能看到的只是其中很小的一部分。

      我们的盐矿之旅,是从这狭窄的木楼梯开始的。

      每下几层,就会看到这样的牌子,告知这是第几层,有多深。

      每进入一个厅室,指示牌也会告知厅室的名字和开通的年代。

      看到了1649年的字样,仿佛穿越到了300多年前。

      这些当然不是原始建筑。在上世纪50年代初,盐矿的一部分就被改造成了博物馆,供人参观。1996年,盐矿停止开采,博物馆不断改进扩大。

      盐矿博物馆里有很多雕塑,讲述盐矿的历史。

      盐矿有一个美丽的传说。五千年前,这里的人们就发现山里的水是咸的。他们将水放在容器里烧干,盐就会存在容器底部。

      在13世纪时,盐矿的开采,还要归功于匈牙利的金嘉公Princess Kinga。

      金嘉公主是匈牙利国王贝拉四世的女儿,她被许配给了当时统治着克拉科夫的波兰大公波莱斯瓦夫五世。

      国王问女儿要什么样的嫁妆,金嘉公主要了一个盐矿,因为波兰没有盐矿。

      国王把金嘉带到了匈牙利最大的盐矿——马拉穆列什,对金嘉说:“这就是你所要的,这里的盐矿储量最丰富。”

      金嘉取下手指上的订婚戒指,扔进矿井里。

      不久,金嘉前往克拉科夫完婚。

      路上,在维利奇卡这个地方,金嘉停了下来,叫人在她指定的地点向下挖。当挖到岩石,再也挖不动时,金嘉让他们凿下一块岩石。所有人都看到了奇异的一幕 -- 岩石里竟是金嘉公主的订婚戒指!

      原来,金嘉公主的嫁妆 –- 岩盐,被她的戒指奇迹般带到了波兰。

      从此,波兰有了盐矿。金嘉公主也成为了盐矿工人的守护神。

      这个雕塑展现了这个美好的传说。

      抬头看,有些地方还有一片片白花花的盐巴。

      盐矿里沼气很重,很多人常常为此丧命。后来就有了专门清除沼气的工人。他们在新开出的盐矿里用火把试探点燃存在的沼气,为矿工们消除隐患。

      这个雕塑就是个以身试沼、除沼的人。

      最初,在矿井里所有的工作都是由工人用双手完成,所有的搬运工作,也都是人工。

      16世纪初,人们想到了用马匹代替人工来做一些最艰苦的工作。

      这些马被绑上特殊的挽具,送入矿井。一旦进入矿井,就没有离开的希望。

      这些马平均工作时间是10年,也有在地下长达20多年的。

      想想这些马匹,一辈子见不到阳光和蓝天,也是怪可怜的。

      盐矿里有很多用盐岩雕出的塑像。这是波兰国王卡西米日大帝的塑像。

      盐矿的开采和盐业贸易对波兰的君主们有很重要的战略意义。因此,盐矿在中世纪时全部由皇家王室垄断,利润收入全部收入王室金库。

      卡西米日大帝的功劳在于,他用盐矿收入在克拉科夫建立了波兰的第一所大学。就是先前提到的克拉科夫大学。

      卡西米日大帝是波兰历史上的一个伟大的皇帝。他进行了一系列改革。1368年,他颁布法令放弃了对盐矿的专有权。

       

      这是教皇约翰保罗二世的塑像。先前提过,教皇保罗二世是克拉科夫的骄傲。他的塑像无处不在。但用盐雕的,恐怕只有这一个吧。

      盐矿下有40多个教堂。最壮观的应该是这个圣金嘉公主教堂了。教堂高达10米,宽15米,长54米,气势颇为宏伟。

      据说这个教堂是由3个矿工,用了67年的时间才雕刻装饰完成。

      67年?那就是不止一代人了。真不简单啊。太高级了!列宁同志不停地咂着嘴。

      看样子,教堂对于矿工们来说真的很重要。这是另一处教堂。

      置身于安静的教堂中,真是难以想象自己是在近两百米深的地下。

      在盐矿里,也不知经过了多少这样的通道。

      只看见一个老头,越走越慢,渐渐落在了这组游客的后边。当我们再见到他时,看见他捧着个氧气瓶,艰难蹒跚地走着,只有老伴陪伴在身边。

      其实他可能和我们差不多的岁数。列宁同志悄悄对我说,咱可别等到走不动时再出来玩,那不遭罪嘛!

       

      出口的游客大厅宽敞豪华,像个宫殿。

      但是向上的电梯却小的可怜。我们排了很长时间的队,才轮到上电梯。这是我见到过的最小的电梯了。9个人挤在电梯里,一个挤着一个。恨不得有缩骨功,才不会碰到别人。

      这可能是盐矿关闭前的最后一代电梯了。其实以前根本连电梯都没有,下井全是用绳子吊下去。

      多亏我们走着下去,乘电梯上来。我说。

      要不然,一半的人都会留在下面,就地埋葬。列宁同志又开始调侃了。

      终于又回到了地面,见到蓝天。

       

      << 金秋十月中欧三国掠影(七):克拉科夫(3)

       

       
















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